1. The Carmel Market tour — Shuk HaCarmel
The classic — the city's biggest market, and the easiest introduction.
The Carmel Market is Tel Aviv's main food market and the default subject of a first food tour: a long crowded run of stalls selling produce, spices, halva, olives, fish, cheese and street food, with the Yemenite Quarter and Nahalat Binyamin immediately alongside.
A good tour uses the market as a spine and steps off it into the surrounding streets, which is where the better eating actually is — the Yemenite bakeries, the juice stands, the hummus and the halva.
Friday morning is the market at maximum intensity: the whole city shops for Shabbat at once. It is hard to move and it is the best time to be there.
Good to know: Book the earliest morning slot. By 1pm the market is winding down and the good stalls are picked over.