1. The chef-guided tasting tour, Machane Yehuda — Machane Yehuda, Jerusalem
The market's own tour, led by a chef, through 250-odd stalls.
Machane Yehuda runs chef-guided tasting tours through its own market — around three hours in a market of more than 250 vendors selling spices, produce, cheese, halva, fish and prepared food, led by professional chefs who bring in the stories of the shopkeepers and restaurateurs alongside the food.
Being the market's own programme has an obvious advantage: the access. A chef who works with these stallholders gets you behind counters and into conversations that a general walking guide does not, and the commentary is about how the ingredients are used rather than only what they are.
The shuk itself is the point of Jerusalem eating — go hungry and plan nothing demanding for the afternoon.
Good to know: Sunday to Thursday, mid-morning. Friday is extraordinary and nearly impassable.