1. Machane Yehuda Market — Machane Yehuda
The city's beating heart — produce and spices by day, bars by night.
Machane Yehuda is Jerusalem's main market and one of the best in the Middle East: covered and open lanes packed with produce, spices, halva, nuts, dried fruit, cheese, fish and meat, plus the Iraqi and Kurdish stalls that give it its particular character.
In the last fifteen years it has transformed twice over — first with the arrival of serious restaurants and coffee counters between the stalls, then at night, when the shutters come down to reveal murals and a dense bar scene appears in the same lanes.
Friday morning before Shabbat is the peak: the entire city shopping at once, and one of the great experiences in Israel.
Good to know: Visit twice — once on a Friday morning for the market, once after dark for the bars behind the shutters.