1. Machneyuda — Beside the market, Beit Yaakov Street
The restaurant that changed Jerusalem's food scene, and still the city's most exciting table.
Machneyuda is the restaurant that gave the shuk its reputation and Jerusalem its confidence. Three chefs run a deliberately chaotic open kitchen beside the market that supplies it, the cooking is driven by whatever the stalls delivered that morning, and the room — staff and diners together — periodically breaks into music and dancing.
Beneath the theatre the food is serious: the polenta with mushrooms and truffle, superb fish and meat, and a daily menu that changes with the market. It is as much an event as a meal.
It is extremely popular and books out well ahead, especially for weekend evenings. Sit at the kitchen counter if you can — it is the best seat in the house and the one that explains what the fuss is about.
Good to know: Book weeks ahead and ask for the kitchen counter. Go hungry and expect noise.