1. Tmol Shilshom — Yoel Moshe Salomon Street, Nachalat Shiva
A bookshop café in a nineteenth-century courtyard — Jerusalem's literary institution.
Tmol Shilshom hides down a stone courtyard off Yoel Moshe Salomon Street in Nachalat Shiva, and it has been the city's literary café since 1994 — walls of books, a warm dim room, and a long history of readings by Israeli writers including Amos Oz and David Grossman.
The name comes from an Agnon novel, and the place takes its literary identity seriously without being precious about it. The food is a proper dairy menu rather than a token one.
Finding it the first time is part of the experience; the entrance is easy to walk past.
Good to know: It is down a courtyard off the street and genuinely hard to spot — look for the sign rather than a shopfront.