1. The Old City and Smilansky Street — Old City
The only planned Ottoman town in Israel — a grid of stone houses now full of bars and cafés.
Beer Sheva's Old City was laid out by the Ottomans in the early twentieth century as an administrative town for the Negev Bedouin, and it is the only Ottoman-planned grid town in the country — straight streets, one- and two-storey stone houses and arched doorways.
For decades it was neglected. It has since been restored street by street, and Smilansky Street in particular is now the city's evening centre, with small bars, restaurants and cafés in the old houses and students from Ben-Gurion University filling them at night.
Walk it in the late afternoon, when the stone warms up in the low light, and stay for dinner.
Good to know: Come after 6pm — the Old City is sleepy by day and properly alive at night.