1. Port Said — Near the Great Synagogue
Eyal Shani's roaring, no-reservations small-plates bar — the truest taste of how Tel Aviv actually eats.
If you eat at one restaurant in Tel Aviv, make it this one. Port Said sits in the shadow of the Great Synagogue on Har Sinai Street, spilling out onto a pavement packed with low tables, a wall of vinyl records behind the bar, and a handwritten menu that changes with whatever the market delivered that morning. It is the flagship of Eyal Shani, the chef who did more than anyone to define the vegetable-forward, unfussy style that Tel Aviv now exports around the world.
The cooking is deceptively simple and consistently thrilling: charred whole cauliflower, tomatoes dressed in nothing but good olive oil and salt, grilled fish, slow-cooked meats, all meant to be shared across the table with your hands and torn bread. Nothing is precious, everything tastes of itself, and the kitchen sends it out fast and hot into a room that only gets louder as the night goes on.
There are no reservations, and that is the point — Port Said is a scene as much as a restaurant. Turn up, give your name, order a drink and wait on the street with everyone else. Come before 19:00 for a quieter table or after 22:00 for the full, thumping, late-night version.
Good to know: No reservations. Go early or late to skip the longest waits, and don't fight the sharing format — order broadly for the table.