1. The Old Man and the Sea — Jaffa Port
Twenty-odd mezze dishes arrive before you have ordered — the most generous meal in Tel Aviv.
The Old Man and the Sea is a Jaffa Port institution, and its reputation rests on one spectacular piece of theatre: you sit down and the table fills with twenty or more small dishes — salads, dips, pickles, fried cauliflower, aubergine, bread — before you have ordered anything at all. They are refilled as they empty.
The main courses are grilled fish and meat, simply done and secondary to the mezze, which is where the value is. A table of four can eat extremely well here without ordering much beyond the bread and a couple of fish.
It is big, loud and busy with families and groups, with a terrace looking out over the harbour. It is not refined and does not try to be.
Good to know: Order half of what you think you need. The mezze alone will feed you, and it keeps coming.