1. Old Jaffa — Jaffa
A 4,000-year-old port city at the southern end of the promenade, and the best hour in Tel Aviv.
Jaffa was a working port for millennia before Tel Aviv existed, and the restored Old City above the harbour is a compact maze of limestone alleys, artists' studios, galleries and viewpoints back along the coast toward the modern skyline.
The obvious route is up through Kedumim Square, out along the alleys named after signs of the zodiac, and down to the fishing harbour, with the flea market a few streets inland. It takes an hour to walk and considerably longer if you stop, which you should.
Go late in the afternoon: the light on the stone is best then, the flea market bars fill up, and you can walk back along the promenade into the sunset.
Good to know: Walk down from Tel Aviv along the promenade rather than taking a taxi — the approach to Jaffa is half the pleasure.